In ancient times, Crete boasted several prominent city-states, among them the mighty Aptera, famed for its dual harbors and vibrant civic life. Now, only remnants stand, a testament to its past splendor.
Dating back to the Minoan era, Aptera’s strategic location ensured its prosperity through the Hellenistic period. According to legend, it was near its shores that the muses triumphed over the sirens in a singing contest, plucking their feathers and rendering them «apterous» — wingless.
The city of Aptera, in antiquity, was renowned for its strategic control of two key harbors: the present-day town of Marafi, once known as Minoa, and Kalives, formerly Kisamos. These maritime gateways cemented Aptera’s reputation as a pivotal trading hub on the island of Crete. Its inhabitants were not just traders but also skilled archers, often hired as mercenaries in foreign conflicts. Their earnings contributed to the prosperity of their homeland. In the 3rd century BCE, Aptera engaged in conflict with the powerful city of Kydonia in northwest Crete. After a period of dominance by Kydonia, Aptera experienced both alliance and rivalry with another Cretan stronghold, Knossos, leaving a legacy of complex inter-city relations.
Historical texts and excavations reveal that Aptera peaked during the Hellenistic period (late 4th to 3rd centuries BCE), evidenced by its coin minting. Coins featured Goddess Artemis on one side and on the other, rulers of Aptera, Apollo, or Hera, along with city emblems like a torch, bee, or bow. Under Roman rule, Aptera’s prominence waned. It is believed that a 7th-century earthquake and Arab pirate raids led to its decline. By the 12th century, the ruins gave way to the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian. The location of ancient Aptera was rediscovered in 1834 after centuries of obscurity.
Today, the expansive grounds of Aptera reveal remnants of the Minoan era, as well as traces from the Geometric, Roman, and Hellenistic periods. This makes the ancient city a premier destination for archeology enthusiasts in Crete.
Visitors can expect to discover:
—Historic Aptera Fortifications: Spanning 4 kilometers, these defensive walls were constructed in the 3rd century BCE. The impressive masonry remains a testament to the city’s wealth during that period.
—Aqueducts from Roman Era: Supplied water to Aptera, including the public baths.
—Partially Rebuilt Theater: Located at the southeast entry of the city.
—5th Century BC Pagan Temple: Features two rooms.
—Tri-Arch Roman Structure: Represents Roman architectural style.
—Historic Necropolis: Contains tombs from various epochs.
—St. John the Theologian Monastery: Constructed with materials from the old city, operational until the 1960s, now partially restored.
Within the courtyard of a once-grand estate from Roman times, remnants such as pillars scatter the grounds. From the Byzantine era, a collection of structures attest to the past architectural diversity. To the northeast of the city stands the Turkish-built Kules Fortress, erected as a defensive measure against the Cretan rebels. Not far from the coast lies another bastion, Itzedin, constructed in 1872, complete with medical facilities, barracks, and additional installations.
Discoveries at the Chania Archaeological Museum: A treasure trove awaits with coins, vases, inscriptions, funerary statuettes, and sculptures.
Location: Perched 200 meters above Souda Bay, Aptera is situated on a plateau, just 15 km from Chania and 54 km from Rethymno. Getting There: No direct bus service; renting a car is advised. Travel via the National Road, follow signs to Aptera, located near the highway. From Chania, a taxi ride costs between €20-€30.
